An epic eight day journey through one of SA’s Most mesmerizing mountain ranges.
The call of the wild beckoned – and we had to answer.
Our plan was to traverse the Cederberg Mountains and discover as many secret gems as possible.
Armed with our rented 4x4, camping equipment, and buckets of curiosity, we set out on a thrilling eight-day journey that would take us from Piketberg all the way through the mountains to our final destination Beaverlac.
The pandemic lockdown in South Africa hit us hard. We felt as though we hadn't connected with nature for a while. We longed to be re-immersed in the wilderness. My partner and I have always been intrigued with taking a 4x4, hitting the open road, and simply just being.
Existing as one with the moment, the present, and our surroundings – where the only confines you find are the limits in your mind.
We knew we wanted to escape, but where to go?
South Africa is blanketed with some of the richest and most diverse natural environments globally. Even though we have both lived here our entire lives, we haven't explored nearly enough of our beautiful, humble abode.
So, we opened a fresh excel sheet, google search page, and an almost too unwrinkled map. After pooling over routes and destinations, reading myriad reviews and scouring through web images, we had our plan.
We hired a 4x4 through Bushlore, a car rental company that specializes in adventure road trips, camping equipment, and, of course, off-road driving. We chose the Hilux 4x4, which came fully equipped with camping gear, from kitchen utensils and a camping shower to a fully functioning fridge and extremely cosy rooftop tent.
After an efficient handover, we had the 4x4 car keys in our hands and revved our own engines to begin our eight-day immersive journey through the mountains.
Two semi-clueless but ecstatic wanderers finally took to the road.
Part 1: Januariesfontein
We departed from Cape Town on a bright and sunny Saturday. The GPS was assembled and ready for our first coordinates.
A blissful one and a half-hour drive brought us to Piketberg, a small town neighbouring Banghoek Private Nature Reserve and opposite the Cederberg Catchment Area.
We meandered the quiet roads until we found our turnoff, taking us further towards the rugged slopes and through the mountain pass. As we climbed higher, the views to the right turned richer, revealing a landscape peppered with agricultural land that once had thrived.
The sun was slowly setting, sending a pink hue into the skies. We finally found ourselves traversing a now dried up river bank and towards a humble farmhouse.
Tony, the farm owner, greeted us at the gate and hopped onto his quad bike. We followed him through the thickets and up a narrow, rocky dirt road that led towards the top campsite area.
It was breathtaking. The campsite was simple yet exquisite in its ability to fully blend in with the natural environment that overlooked the escarpment. Fynbos flourished from every angle, corner, and nook.
A delightful couch was perched beside the fireplace, adorned with a table and another fireplace designed purely for cooking. Further up was an enviro/compost loo that is later used to re-nourish the land. An outdoor shower stood among the rocks. All we had to do was start a little fire under the makeshift eco-geyser that sat adjacent to the outdoor bathroom to receive hot water.
It was perfect. So we excitedly set out to unpack and settle into our home for the night. All we had to do was turn the car around so we could reach the stairs to our rooftop tent. Easy right? Wrong…
While attempting a three-point-turn, or rather, a one-thousand-point-turn, we managed to slide into a pocket of deep, dusty sand. As we proceeded to frantically retrieve the car wheel, we only made matters worse. Maybe it was time for bed. These inexperienced 4x4'ers needed some rest before they could tackle anything more strenuous.
The next day we arose with the sun and singing birds. It was heavenly. We started two fires, one for our morning coffee and the other for a hot shower. We carefully tended to these and our stomachs, pretending not to notice the three-ton problem staring at us.
My piping, steaming hot shower was probably the best I've ever had, and the fact that I heated up that water with nothing but fire and physical work made it all the more sweeter.
Nestled between rocky outcrops, I gazed towards the open horizon and smiled.
Our afternoon was an experience I've never done before and will never forget. We spend a few hours with nothing but shovels, digging our Hilux out of the sand. It was intense but almost thrilling at the same time. Almost.
After some incredible progress and a few shifts, the car looked to be in better condition. But we didn't want to jinx it; we were still having a good day.
So we put the problem to rest and decided to relish our night at the campfire. It wasn't just what we wanted, but what we needed.
Part 2: De Pakhuys
An early rise and purple skies helped us slide out of bed.
We packed everything up, cooked some eggs, made some coffee, and had a final hot shower before our departure. Then came the moment of truth – did our hours of digging actually equate to some sort of success?
Indeed, they did. However, our work wasn’t all that helped. Being beginners at this whole 4x4 thing, we hadn’t even realized that our car wasn’t even in 4x4 mode. Ah. Okay. Switch that to 4x4 and…
With incredible smoothness and ease, the Hilux made it out of the sand. We still thoroughly believe that our digging was the overriding champion. Still, we've made a mental note for next time: When you have a 4x4, make sure it's actually IN 4x4 mode.
Despite smacking our hands upon our foreheads a moment before, we were ready for the next stage of our epic adventure.
Next stop, lunch in Eland’s Bay, a restock in Clanwilliam, and then onto humble abode number two – De Pakhuys.
A pleasant journey towards the seaside lifted our spirits even higher. After arriving in Eland’s Bay, we found the Wit Mussel Hut, a sweet surfer’s oasis and restaurant. We had some lunch, a walk along the beach, and made our way to Clanwilliam.
The drive took us alongside the coast, then turning left through Lambert’s Bay and into the Cederberg range. A mountain pass led us down into a wide-reaching valley in which Clanwilliam stands.
We fueled up, bought some much-needed firewood, and made our way up another mountain pass (there are more than a handful of these on our journey). As we perused the path, the surrounding rock formations erupted from the Earth to create a surreal landscape.
With awe in our eyes, we surveyed the dramatic landscape we suddenly found ourselves in. Nature, time, and water can truly sculpt the most remarkable things.
We hit a dirt road and found our destination. First come first serve camping gave us the ability to seek a secluded spot beneath a rocky outcrop with a small cave. We set up our tent, but the fairy lights up and lit a fire. The night was filled with laughter and admiration for our surroundings. Time for bed.
The next day we were greeted with a wide-arching rainbow. But where there’s a rainbow, there’s rain. We sought out shelter from the nearby cave and beneath our protruding roof tent. We weren’t going to leave without doing a spot of exploring, and we knew there was a waterfall beckoning to us nearby.
Finally, the clouds parted ways to let in a peep of sunlight. This was our opportunity. We grabbed our towels and hats and sprinted to the path. Meandering the path, embracing the shallow sun streaks and sublime scenery, we made our way past chipped boulders and geological wonders.
A gushing sound stopped us in our tracks. We were close. After ducking and diving through some rocks, we found the cascading oasis, a two-part waterfall nourishing the land. We soaked ourselves in our surroundings, observing every inch of our new environment, and took a few photos, of course.
After returning to the Hilux, we bid our campsite farewell and headed back to Clanwilliam for lunch. Back over the mountain pass and into the below valley, we traversed the roads and found a sanctuary blanketed in natural splendour.
The Yellow Aloe House is a farm stall, restaurant, guest house, and events location. But, most of all, it’s heralded for its exquisite and lush garden. Grown from scratch, this haven unearths emerald mysteries in a labyrinth of plant diversity. Kittens climb the trees as fish inhabit the crystal clear waters. We enjoyed a delicious lunch and proceeded to our next destination.
Part Three: Enjoy Nature Farm
Gravel roads and undulating landscapes made up the bulk of our journey – and we wouldn’t have had it any other way.
Off the beaten track and into the seemingly unknown.
We didn’t rush it, soaking up the slow-passing scenery. After passing through two farm gates, we had arrived to Enjoy Nature Farm.
Situated alongside the Biedourivier, Enjoy Nature Farm is an isolated sanctum that boasts peace, relaxation, and stunning serene surroundings.
Our campsite was carpeted in soft sand and sheltered by two towering thorn trees. Weaver birds had made their nests, and we felt as though we were invited to sleep beside them.
We were used to unpacking and setting up at this point, and we did so with speed and efficiency. A tasty dinner, warm fire, and ice-cold drinks made for the perfect set up from which to watch the full moon rise.
Part Four: The long journey to Kagga Kamma
After one of the best sleep of our lives, we awoke to the chirps of ecstatic weavers. We had hot showers, cleaned the dishes, and packed up.
Before embarking on the next leg of our journey (and the hardest – of which we were unaware), we had a cup of tea at the main reception area and quickly used the Wi-Fi to ensure our next bookings and let our family know we were still safe and sound.
Back in the car and onto the gravel roads. We traversed the rugged escarpment further into the heart of the mountains. Random pockets of civilization popped up along our way, and we were able to gain a peek into other quiet worlds and ways of living.
We reached a route that snaked up high into the cliffs and stopped to admire the scenery that gave way around us. Little did we know – this was the calm before the stormy drive.
Tapping our coordinates into the GPS, our map informed us we had two hours until our campsite. However, the app didn't take into account what type of road we were to embark on.
First, the pathway leading upwards was extremely narrow. I even hesitated to peer out my window in case I tipped the scale a little too much for safety sake. Once we reached the top, and after releasing a few tense sighs, we continued on our path. It felt much easier to peruse a widened path that didn't seem to be at the edge of the Earth.
Then we reached yet another breach in our route – and by breach, I mean almost unimaginable rugged roads. Sliced rocks resembling spikes jutted out of the path from nearly every angle. Huge dips created mammoth crevices big enough for a one-man swimming pool and no cell reception for miles.
This was our test, us against the roads with no one but the mountains as witnesses.
Two hours the GPS had declared, and only six hours later did we find ourselves at the end of the harsh roads. A few panic attacks were had, but we were otherwise cloaked in relief and awe that we had made it. Finally, we hit some smooth gravel that felt better than any other road we’d ever experienced.
Over the next mountain pass stood the sign to Kagga Kamma. Another 30 minutes brought us to the welcoming sight of the nature reserves gates.
The biome and vegetation had shifted from emerald succulents to golden and grey shrubs. The skies were a wispy blue, the sun setting the scenery on fire with its lightening gaze.
Part Five: Kagga Kamma
We were greeted by incredibly accommodating staff who organized some firewood and made us feel right at home. That night, we witnessed the golden sun melt, leaving an ooze of pink and fiery orange in its wake. The stars glittered in the abysmal darkness of space as the moon crept further into the sky, performing a light show unlike any other.
That night, we had the sweetest dreams.
The next day we decided to treat ourselves. 8:30 AM, we embarked on a wander up the stairways margined by seemingly sunburnt outcrops. Reaching the top, a glass room bode us welcome.
Smooth jazz filled the air as we undressed and made our way onto the massage tables. After a dreamy treatment, we spent the next half an hour snacking on fruit and admiring the morning views of the sweeping Cederberg plains below.
Kagga Kamma Nature Reserve is a wide expanse of Cederberg wilderness and was home to the San and Bushmen people dating back to 6000 years ago. The historical rock art of our ancestors peppers the astounding rock formations of the land. We journeyed onto the hiking path to catch a glimpse of these significant masterpieces of human history and time.
Following the blue arrows carefully marking the way, we explored the natural surroundings in search of rock paintings. We climbed cliffs, duct under outcrops, squeezed through some cave-like crevices and discovered a handful of seemingly pristine rock art.
Dating from an estimated 2000 – 600 years ago, many of these exquisite painting resemble what the world once was, one of the only age-old testaments we have as the human race. A symbol of archaic life, of where we started, of our journey of existence thus far.
After two hours of historical exploration, as well as a mindful meander among the awe-inspiring geological formations, we decided to have a spot of lunch and make our way to our next campsite.
To experience as much as we could at Kagga Kamma, our next humble abode was one of the furthest campsites on the nature reserve itself. While only about 30 kilometres away from the reception area, we journeyed for an hour and a half before reaching the campsite due to the rough 4x4 roads. However, due to our drive the previous day, we took our time to relish the adventure for this one.
Our serene, secluded campsite was a slice of heaven on Earth. Embraced by rough-hewn crags with commanding vistas, our new little haven was at the zenith of both Cederberg beauty and peace. We enjoyed sundowners on the peaks, watching the sun sink below the horizon and silhouetting the surrounding undulating hillsides.
At night, the moon seemed to be a slow riser, giving way for a birth of sparkling stars.
With a fire bringing the heat, stars providing the ambience, and amazing company, we had a night to remember.
Part Six: Beaverlac
We awoke to a brush of gently pink, golden, and orange hues, setting the scene for a beautiful day to come. We rose slowly, just like the sun, and put the kettle on to boil. After a nice cup of coffee and fire-cooked eggs, we packed away our things, did a sweep over the campsite to ensure no litter escaped us and set on our way.
En route to the reception, we spotted eland and Oryx antelope – some of the most tranquil yet majestic buck species I’ve ever had the pleasure to witness.
On our return, we checked out and headed to the start of another rock painting hike. We spent a whole 3 hours navigating through the enchanting, wondrous rock formations, observing interesting plant and insect life, and admiring the mountain views that sat on the horizon. The sun crept higher into the sky, and the heat told us to start heading back.
A dip in the pool and a last rock art sighting, and we were on our way to our final destination – Beaverlac.
We journeyed back down the gravel road, this time turning left onto an actual tar road.
We thought we'd enjoy this moment much more than we really did. Instead, we found ourselves missing the empty rugged pathways as we almost resented the idea of a highway leading home. At least our adventure wasn't over just yet.
After a stop in Ceres for some lunch, supplies, and a much needed larger-than-our-faces coffee, we set off to Porterville.
Sitting about an hour and a half from Cape Town, this hamlet is heralded for its amazing paragliding take-off sites and conditions. And we could see why.
En route to Beaverlac, we ventured up to another mountain pass. It may have been tar, but it was one of the narrowest and steepest passes we had ever been on. Taking it slow, I was able to catch a glimpse of the sweeping vistas below. A mismatch of agricultural and natural and made an interwoven carpet of awe beneath two opposing mountain ranges.
A half an hour later, we found ourselves down the neighbouring valley and at the gates of Beaverlac. Booking here is essential, and camping is on a first-come, first-serve basis. You have to pay upfront in cash, so be sure to visit an ATM beforehand.
Beneath the leafy, towering tree canopies, we found ourselves unpacking and sparking up yet another campfire. Tomorrow was going to be an exceptional day.
We awoke to the rising sun, just as we did every single day on our trip, just the way we liked it. We made breakfast, prepared some snacks, made sure our campsite was in a suitable condition and headed to the renowned rock pools and glistening waterfalls Beaverlac is known for.
A short 10-minute walk took us to the Secret Pool, a soothing sanctuary surrounded by mystical mountains and a humble cliff with numerous mini waterfalls gently gliding over its slopes. The water was freezing, having flowed all the way from the mountain tops, but made a welcoming refresher from the blazing sun.
It was here we spent most of the day, munching on our prepared snacks, gazing dreamily at the waterfalls, exploring every crack and crevice we could see, admiring the mammoth mountains that stared sweetly at us, and soaking up the sun’s rays.
In the afternoon, we decided to seek out some of the other pools. Enchanted, we completely forgot that Beaverlac is home to myriad rock pools.
A 10-minute walk back to the campsite, followed by a further 5-minute walk in the opposite direction, led us to the main pools. This liquid haven has one main waterfall that falls into a grand body of water. There's a rope from which you can climb up the craggy outcrops and launch yourself into the water's depths.
We spent the rest of our day here, leaping like frogs off rocks and into the profound pond below, relishing in the immersive natural surroundings and quietly wishing the day never had to end.
Our final night was peaceful, like a smooth Sunday breeze after a weekend of excitement. We cooked the remainder of our food, watched our final campfire like it was the best cinema we'd ever experienced, and turned our heads to the stars like they were our loving guides.
Part Seven: Homebound
Eight days and eight nights. Five exquisite locations. A long-way-round journey of the Cederberg – done. While neither one of us had ever intrepidly explored this national mountainous realm, we felt like it was an extension of ourselves: part of our history, present, and future that we had no yet met properly.
Now an old friend, and one we will find ourselves visiting time and time again, we bid the Cederberg farewell.
It was surreal returning to the city bowl. Smog crept up our noses, car horns reverberated through the car and into our nerves, and packed highways lining the city seemed only too foreign to us.
It can be challenging after one such adventure to return to your actual home and feel like you’re missing a piece of yourself. Whatever that means, I definitely left a part of my heart in the Cederberg.
Until next time.
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