The Drakensberg is a haven of adventure nestled among some of South Africa’s most embellished and cherished mountain ranges. Located in Kwa-Zulu Natal, this vast and magical realm is adorned with rugged outcrops, cascading waterfalls, and brightly-hued wildflowers.
While numerous hiking trails lead to commanding vistas and geological wonders, one in particular embodies the Drakensberg dale.
Set in Champagne Valley, Central Drakensberg, the circular hike takes walkers up the Matterhorn, past Breakfast Stream, over and under the Sphinx, and finally down to the verdant forests margining the Champagne Resort Hotel.
This particular hike takes about 4 hours to traverse, with about an hour and a half uphill. The route I will be leading you through can be done in reverse, following the same path.
So pack your water bottle, grab a hat, make sure you have some snacks, and be prepared for an explosion of exquisite indigenous natural expanse.
The Start
Begin your hike from Champagne Valley Hotel. Veer towards the back end of the hotel and follow the signs leading you to the Matterhorn path. The hike’s first leg is strenuous as it consists mainly of uphills, passing indigenous flora and uplifting views the father you get.
Continue along the path until you reach the first fusion of small, free-flowing rivers, streams, and waterfalls. I often stop here for a breather, fill up my water bottle with fresh mountain liquid, and gaze at the lush vegetation that finds strength from this network of water.
The route then leads you further up the slopes, only to bring you to another set of water arteries. These waterfalls glide over rocks and create veins of cascading nourishment. If you’re feeling a little tired, definitely stop here to marvel at the ferns and moss that cloak the rocks and swaying trees.
The last bit of the Matterhorn is a push. Two sections consist of steep stair-like paths. These take energy to traverse, but stopping to take a breather is exhilarating as you peer over the valley and gain a closer look at Cathkin peak.
After about an hour, you’ll be at the top of the Matterhorn. Soak up the suns rays, take a seat on the bench and marvel at the tremendous views, and breath in that fresh, rejuvenating mountain air. The journey has only just begun.
Matterhorn to Breakfast Stream
Now we’ve arrived at the beginning of a long, enjoyable wander on the bluff, with the bulk of the route being flat. Here, wildflowers find solace and fully flourish between the highveld and shrubs that blanket the mountain slopes.
Large, white arrows are pinned up to help guide the way. Follow these towards the mammoth summits of Cathkin Peak.
As you continue on your adventure, you’ll see a small hill, or koppie, protruding from the escarpment. Follow the path past this outgrowth and around the bend. Here, you’ll find yourself veering away from the view of Cathkin Peak and slowly slanting downwards towards the valley.
This path will lead you in and out of verdant pockets held together by a gentle stream. These petite forests harbour seemingly fluorescent fungi and hanging moss that cascade from the tree canopy. Strong roots line the path to create a natural stairway up from the river bed.
It’s only a little further from the second brook that you’ll find sandstone-like rocks like carpets on the escarpment. Between the crevices of this plateau shrub-covered, time and water have sculpted a wave of waterways. Once the rain has fallen, rock pools form and swirl to create the perfect breakfast picnic spot - this is Breakfast Stream.
Relish in the natural allure, commanding vistas, and sweet songs of chirping birds. Remember to fill up your water bottle, have a little snack, and immerse yourself in this small but pulsating sanctuary.
Breakfast Stream to the Sphinx
After a replenish session at the stream, make your way past the shrub-covered hill. Here you’ll find a fork, with one leading further up the mount and the other down past it. Choose the latter and continue on your mission downwards. Don’t forget to peer behind you and into the cracks of the mountainside. Look closely, and you’ll see myriad waterfalls exploding from the pockets of abundant foliage.
The path will begin getting rocky, steep, and narrow here. Traverse with caution and take your time getting down. If you’ve decided to take this hike in reserve, you’ll be tackling this part upwards. Again, continue with the utmost care.
Once down, you’ll find a network of scattered trails. This is the top of the Sphinx. There are plenty of spaces to sit down and revel in the 360 vistas envisioned from every angle.
Wander downwards, and you’ll find yourself gazing at the side profile of the Sphinx. When gliding beneath it, you’ll see a spot where previous hikers and explorers have thrown rocks into the outcrop crevice. This little ritual has continued for years, so make your memories by adding your stone to the pile.
The Sphinx to Crystal Falls
Following the path, you’ll pass prehistoric flora and wildflowers bursting from the mountainsidesMarvellous. The tranquil sounds of rushing water will entertain your senses, and as you continue, a faint line of glistening white will enter your vision. This is Crystal Falls.
Meander the trail until you find a gathering of set stones. To your right, peering through the leafy veil, a waterfall emerges in awe. There are two ways to reach the falls. Either carefully traverse the rocks, or walk a little further until you find a path opening on the right. This leads you safely to the waterfall itself.
Crystal Falls is an elongated, thin yet powerful waterfall that pools into a body of water. Enjoy a soothing massage under the waterfall or submerge yourself in its icy waters as you watch the light dapple through the ferns and jungle foliage all around you.
Crystal Falls to Champagne Hotel
Now you’ve reached the last leg of your hike. From here on, most of the path is sheltered from the sun. Marvellous plants find a haven here, including maidenhair ferns and heart-shaped vines.
This route takes you past more swimming streams and under large canopies. Finally, you’ll reach a woodland with giant eucalyptus trees. Peering through these branches, you can make out a sapphire dam, creating a contrast of emerald and blue hues.
This route wanders for a while until you start seeing signs of civilization. Delicate thatched huts and white sandy walls tell you that you’ve reached the stem of the hotel, and you’ve completed your circular hike from the Matterhorn and back again.
To see more photographs of the Drakensberg, the fascinating foliage that cloaks the vast landscape, and the array of waterfalls that nourish the earth, visit my galley here.
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